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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. However, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.